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The Real Truth About Uganda – The Pearl of Africa

We never imagined three years ago that we would ever travel to Africa let alone the Pearl of Africa! We are still pinching ourselves that we are here! It was a distant dream in our travel goals that just didn’t seem to be within our reach. Here we are now – having spent five months’ in Uganda!

To be honest we had no idea what to expect upon our arrival in Uganda but what a surprise our visit has been. When we announced our plans to travel to Africa our friends & relatives told us stories about Africa that scared the living hell out of me. They said that people in Africa lived in small villages composed of grass huts in the middle of jungles. They said African people lived with wild animals that would eat people & that the African people were known for eating people. They told me that sometimes wild animals would sneak into these villages under the cover of darkness & enter a hut to steal a human as its meal. Now, not a one of them had ever been to any country in Africa so how did they get there info? Definitely wasn’t from any research. Anyway…

As our plane traveled across the Atlantic Ocean I can’t lie, I wondered what were we getting ourselves into visiting this continent. Were we stepping into danger? Every country has its own history & what you read in a book & learned in school may differ greatly from reality once you get to that country.

I’ve said this a hundred times to The Big Guy since we flew to Uganda. This may not have been the best or most attractive African country but it was absolutely the BEST choice for us for our first adventure to Africa! What I have learned has surprised me as well as Horace.

Lessons We Learned in Uganda – The Pearl of Africa!

This list isn’t all encompassing but it will give you an idea! I’m sure as soon as I post I’ll think of more but you get the drift. Uganda is definitely worth a visit. Lets get started!

Lake Victoria has been mentioned in earlier posts but stands another shout out! After you visit it, you will understand why Uganda with its diversity, natural wealth & beauty – which includes this Lake – was nicknamed “The Pearl of Africa”! Its the second largest freshwater lake in the world. Fresh fish? No problem here!

Gbaba beach fish market on Lake Victoria, Kampala, Uganda - The Pearl of Africa
Auntie Dorthy & Holly at Gbaba beach fish market on Lake Victoria, Kampala, Uganda – The Pearl of Africa
Fresh fish market on Lake Victoria in Kampala., Uganda

Pot holes in streets are a given which brings along with it a thick layer of red dirt in the air.

There is no shortage of restaurants for you should you not be a fan of local traditional Ugandan food. Rolexes, roasted chicken, sausage, vegetables are easily found on the streets in the ‘non-tourist’ neighborhoods!

Best neighborhood market – Jam Shoppes in Bukasa – all product was marked & awesome staff. We learned early on if we walked into a neighborhood market & didn’t see prices….we would be charged the “tourist” price. For a larger grocery store the Carrefour groceries are great & had a lot of locations.

Best manicure/pedicures – a chain shop “Sparkles” never disappointed in manis/pedis. The cherry on top was the awesome job in touching up my blond hair! If you color your hair, then you know where I’m going with this.

Best fruit market – Namuwongo Market – don’t let the slum & surroundings scare you – great fresh fruit & vegetables.

Fresh fruit & vege markets are abundant!

Who would have thought Abe Lincoln would be on a Uganda stamp? Who knew? We were on a constant search for the stamp but couldn’t find one in stock. We did find Nelson Mandela, Barack Obama & Princess Di stamps!

Over 54 tribes in Uganda each with its own tribal language! What does this really mean? That every child knows the tribal language & learns English once in school. It was not unusual for a person to speak three or more languages! This is amazing when you think of the lack of language skills most of our children have in the states – its just not a priority & that is sad!

Every name has a meaning.

When a woman from one tribe marries into another tribe, SHE learns the language of husband’s tribe.

Family is EVERYTHING. Villagers know their family lineage & are expected to be able to recall lineage if asked. Elders are appreciated – something lacking in the U.S. I think.

When someone says they will do something, they are not asking you for help- they will do.

Malaria is a real thing – while we were here at least five acquaintances were diagnosed with this disease.

People know how to live off the land.

Rice fields along with sugar cane, sweet potatos, corn are crops raised.

Everyone we have asked has never seen a giraffe, gorilla or elephant, except one who said he saw one at zoo. The people are busy working to live.

Speaking of working, we were told if you see someone that a.m. working, you will see that same person that evening. Long hours.

Uganda has official language – English with Luganda being the most spoken language along with Kiswahili.

Charcoal is a necessity for homes that use charcoal stoves & in the village’s kitchens are located outside the main house.

The Biggest Surprise To Me?

The biggest surprise to me were the questions directed to The Big Guy while they are looking at me. For example, The Big Guy was asked “if the whites hate blacks than why are you with her?” Or they look at me while they are saying “I don’t want to offend you but…” to The Big Guy?

I have learned in Uganda, specifically from Kampala, that I have to have a voice & I have to have an opinion. I do have opinions but usually stay quiet because you may not know who you are really talking to BUT with race relations as they are in the US & with what is shown here, I have to speak up so that I AM NOT PUT IN THE CATEGORY OF ‘THOSE’ WHITES WHO HATE BLACKS! I’m learning.

As I have said, Uganda may not be most popular country to visit (besides the Gorilla Treks) in Africa but it definitely was the right one for us! Chatting with school kids such as this group was definitely a high light of my day in Kampala!

These Kampala school girls wanted a pic with me and of course I said yes!

Join us on our next stop – Nairobi, Kenya!

Authentic Traditional Ugandan Foods – Yummy & So Easy to Make!!

Who knew we would fall in love with traditional Ugandan foods? Although we had no idea what the food would be like in Uganda or what in the world Matoke or Lumonde was, we have not been disappointed! Vegetarian & Meat lovers both have a large menu choice. No problem finding fresh foods here in Uganda!

Traditional Ugandan dish – Matoke

Isaac, a member of one of the largest tribes in Uganda, the Buganda tribe, introduced us to the wonderful world of Matoke or plantain bananas. We have truly been spoiled with the authentic Ugandan foods Isaac has made for us – mashed Matoke with ground nut sauce & Matoke cooked with Irish potatoes – just to name a couple. Since I am a potato girl, the second dish is my favorite but both are really good. If you like meat, you can add but this dish is great just by itself or with Isacc’s homemade onion, cucumber, tomato & carrot salad seasoned with salt & fresh squeezed lemon.

Isaac grew this banana tree on the property & was able to share with us its goodies once the bananas were ready to be picked. Here he has separated the bundle into smaller groups for easier handling.

Bananas being separated from stalk.
Isaac peelling bananas to make authentic ugandan dish - matoke
Isaac peeling bananas to make authentic ugandan dish – matoke

A little cabbage salad & avocado is the perfect combination for this dish.

Authentic dish - Matoke with ground nut sauce!
My favorite traditional ugandan dish - matoke & irish potatoes!

G-nuts are simply roasted peanuts, ground w/spices added & cooked until creamy consistency. Easy peasy & you can add your own take of spices. Isaac uses tomatoes, onions & family secrets! If you want to try the dish yourself, I found a pretty easy to follow recipe on YouTube here!

Traditional Ugandan foods has to include Lumonde

Lumonde, also known as sweet potatoes, is reportedly one of the most popular foods across Africa. Lumonde is another traditional Ugandan dish that Ronald, likes to make when showing off his cooking skills. Ronald is a member of the Busoga tribe, the third largest in Uganda and told us that every time he returns to his village his family loves his cooking and asks him to prepare the family meals. Ronald informed us that in his village sweet potatoes have the orange flesh.

There are three major types of sweet potatoes in Uganda, white, yellow and orange flesh. While shopping in the Namuwongo market in Kampala we have mostly seen the white flesh sweet potato ranging in sizes from a regular potato to being as large as a football! These varieties of sweet potatoes look different than what we are use to seeing in U.S. grocery stores – fresh picked sweet potatoes with white flesh vs the orange flesh that we would think of. For a little history on African sweet potatoes, check this out.

Ronald peeling sweet potatoes
Ronald peeling sweet potatoes. Those banana leaves on shelf are a very important part of the cooking processl! After cleaning, they are basically wrapped with banana leaves & steamed in pan.
Sweet potatoes or lumonde wrapped in banana leaves & steamed pot with little water.
Sweet potatoes ready for the table.
Sweet potatoes ready for the table with cabbage & g-nut sauce.

Don’t get me wrong…we eat A LOT of vegetables here in Uganda with an occasional meal out with meat, but all in all the food here is really good. I can’t remember the last time I had a meal that was not prepared with fresh garden vegetables & served with fresh squeezed juices. We buy most of our vegetables at the local markets, because they come straight from the garden to the vegetable stand. During our days out we stop at the bigger markets like TMT or Carrefour to purchase things other than fresh vegetables. All in all, all these fresh natural foods fits within our budget, so it’s a win win for us! Happy Travels!

How to survive the Good, Bad & Ugly of Kampala!

Having been in Kampala almost five months now, we have found that you definitely must learn how to survive the good, bad & ugly of Kampala, Uganda! Don’t get me wrong, we have thoroughly enjoyed our five months of living in Kampala, Uganda. To be honest we have had very few bad interactions and that leaves us with a fairly good ‘taste’ of Kampala, Uganda.

We feel like we have learned so much during our short stay in Kampala. Although it definitely was a culture shock – I think – to both of us. The differences between cultures is so interesting & it really has been enlightening to see that we could easily survive the good, bad & ugly of Kampala! Open your mind & see what this country has to offer.

It is said a picture paints a thousand words, lets get started.

The Good of Kampala

Lets start with the good of Kampala. Housing [mostly apartments] is available in a wide range of prices depending on your economic understanding. Of course, if you want to live in one of the tourist areas such as Lugogo, your rent is going to be substantially higher but we have found there is a WIDE range of prices for housing – you just gotta do your research. It seems every turn we make there is another apartment building going up! Three buildings are being built around us in the Muygena neighborhood!

Another good is the natural beauty all around you. Taking a drive outside of town is just what we recommend, check out the villages or just the vast scenery. Slow down & enjoy the views. One of our goals was to take a drive to a local village.

village outside Kampala
View of village driven thru on our way to Jinja falls.
Source of the Nile River in Jinja! Amazing natural beauty of Africa!

Source of the Nile River in nearby Jinja!

Whether you are hungry for local chicken from a street vendor, a more relaxed meal at a great restaurant or homemade authentic matooke, you can’t go wrong.

Great street food in Kampala
Street food in Kampala on Bukasa Road.

Cafe Java lunch in Kampala
Cafe Java lunch in Kampala
matoke w/g-nuts
Homemade matooke w/g-nut sauce.
The Big Guy at edge of jungle.
We stuck our toes into the edge of the jungle during a day trip. Beautiful!

The biggest plus for Kampala is the people! Oh my – to us – the Ugandans rate right up there with the Thai people in their smiles! There is so much to see just in a normal day in Kampala, I could post hundreds of photos but hopefully this will make you think about adding Kampala as a stop on your next trip to Uganda.

The Bad of Kampala

Surviving the bad of Kampala can be taxing. As many good things about Kampala, it also has it bad points. It takes a lot out of me to watch small children on the streets walk up to cars at traffic signals & beg for money. Some people say that these small children are being used by adults to beg for money & then the adults take the money from them.

Children begging for money in streets of Kampala
It was not unusual to see children of younger ages than these two to be in groups begging. Locals we spoke to were not happy to see these children on streets when they should have been in school!

The hit & miss of internet service requires a real survival skill. One hour internet is running just fine & then when you are in the middle of a project there is no internet signal. Electricity is the same. It is great & then you might not have any for minutes or hours!

The only thing I can say about traffic in Kampala is – it is horrendous – due to congestion & poor street conditions, there is no rhyme or reason. I would never dare to even try to negotiate the traffic!

street ruts
street ruts

Bodabodas are unregistered motorcycles that act as a ride for hire transportation around Kampala’s heavy traffic. Thousands of people walk up & negotiate a price to ride these Bodabodas every day. This form of motorcycle transportation is considered to be unsafe, but the fastest mode of transportation for the residents & visitors to Kampala. The Big Guy & I used SafeBoda (A registered & licensed form of motorcycle ride hire transportation) for a day with no issues. During our stay in Kampala, we only witnessed two Bodaboda/vehicle accidents – luckily no one was hurt & all parties went on their way. [This would NEVER be resolved so quickly in the States].

Bodas are fearless!
Bodabodas are fearless drivers, some zoom down pedestrian sidewalks to avoid traffic & get to their destination faster!

The streets of Kampala are in need of repairs due to the sheer number of massive potholes on almost every street. During hard rainstorms in NON Touristy sections of Kampala the massive potholes become filled with rainwater & make maneuvering around the streets of Kampala even worst. I really don’t know why anyone would want to drive in this city BUT people say if you can drive in this traffic, you can drive anywhere:)

holes in Kampala streets
Holes on Bukasa Road in Muygena, Kampala neighborhood keeps you on your toes!

With rain filling the potholes, at a glance, you cannot tell how deep the rut(s) are under the water. These drivers really are experienced in driving in these conditions without tearing up their vehicles.

Ruts covered by rain make for an even more dangerous drive.

This has to be the mother of all manholes in dire need of help in Kampala! For the most part, we were told the conditions of the streets depends on who that neighborhood voted for in the election! We were told that by so many people here in the city, I’ve no doubt it is true. You can easily drive a couple miles & go thru beautiful paved streets with palm trees lining the walks (this would be in a tourist area) & then turn a corner to see horrendously rutted ones such as this.

Raised manhole in Kampala street
Raised manhole in Kampala street

We had multiple people tell us that politicians control the shape of Kampala streets. Simply put, the money is allocated for infrastructure but the shape of your street could possibly depend on who you voted for in last election. Yeah, evidently that is a real thing here.

The Ugly of Kampala

Housing, again can be ugly. We were told that the slums are worsened with the numbers of immigrants/refugees from neighboring countries. Population is a major problem. There are over ten major slums in Kampala.

Garbage/trash lining ditch in Kampala slum
Garbage/trash lining ditch in Kampala slum
dead rr tracks in Kampala slum
dead rr tracks in Kampala slum

Streets can be extremely dirty & when it is dry – you can cut thru the dust as seen in this pic. Dirt, alone though is not the whole cause of the air pollution in Kampala – number of autos on streets, emissions & burning of waste used to control it are probably on the high end of the bad air quality numbers.

Dirty air is no joke in Kampala dirt streets.
Dirty air is no joke in Kampala dirt streets.

Our Final Thoughts on Kampala???

Overall we have enjoyed our time in Kampala. We met so many amazing people that will remain as extended family. We knew we were blessed to be able to make this trip to the continent of Africa & I feel like Uganda was a good first stop. Our visa & extension is quickly coming to an end & so we have decided we need to see more of what Africa has to offer!

Next stop is Kenya & we hope to see you there next month!

One Month in Uganda! What A Surprise!

Its only been one month in Uganda & it has been very interesting! What we have learned in such a short time has been amazing.

One month plus down in Uganda with two to go so we will be here a bit but I wanted to share some details of our trip so far & a few interesting facts we have learned along the way. We touched down in Entebbe, Uganda which is located on Lake Victoria, but most of our time has been in spent in Kampala. We may return to Entebbe in the near future though! Between the two cities, we’ll share with you some interesting tidbits we have learned from our new Ugandan friends & what we have been up to.

Before I get to far into this post, let me tell you that yes Uganda has roads, houses, apartment complexes, shopping malls, etc. They, as far as I can tell, have the same things – to a degree- that we had back in the States. We have definitely seen some differences but that is to be somewhat expected I think.

A few interesting things about Uganda that we have learned!

Population of Uganda as of 2021 was 45.85 million.

There are 56 tribes in Uganda with the largest group being Buganda who speak a Bantu language, Luganda.

It is said Uganda was named the “Pearl of Africa” by Winston Churchill because of its beauty, wildlife & diversity.

Although English is the official language, Luganda & Swahili are also widely spoken among the h numerous other tribal languages!

Uganda along with Kenya & Tanzania border the beautiful Lake Victoria, the third largest freshwater lake in the world.

Ugandans are quick to smile & very polite. Only a small few have shied or not responded to us.

Because of my fair skin complexion I have been told that some Ugandans refer to me privately as ‘the white’ or Mzungu [A Ugandan term use to describe a fair skinned white person or any light skin/European, etc]. Many people in Uganda believe that all Mzungu’s are wealthy. Does the words used to describe me bother me? No! It does concern me that people think I am wealthy, because I am not!!

We have learned that Traffic is hellacious with major potholes in many of the roads. It is normal for cars, trucks, taxi’s, motorcycles, bicycles & pedestrians to be experienced at avoiding these craters in the roads on a daily basis. Sidewalks are not kind! It is an experience that every newcomer to the city must endure while traveling around Kampala. Ha.

Arriving in Entebbe, Uganda

Our flights from the States to Uganda were very smooth. After researching the requirements to come into the country & getting all the hard copies required, we had to show our Visa Approval letter from the Ugandan Directorate of Citizenship and Immigration Control before we could obtain our boarding passes at the airport.

I won’t lie, for me it was a culture shock & it took me more than a few days to acclimate to the culture & demographics shock. In the United States I am used to seeing a majority of people that look like me & very few that look like my husband. Upon arrival in Entebbe, Uganda all the demographics were reversed. Everywhere I looked everyone had the same color as my husband & I didn’t see anyone that looked like me.

We spent a few days at a location in Entebbe before we decided to move to Kampala. Wow! Kampala is a very busy city, the streets bustling with cars & motorcycles everywhere! It seems like mass confusion with all the vehicles on the narrow streets, but somehow they seem to manage. Motorcycles seem to out number all other vehicles & with the horrendous traffic you would expect accidents & “road rage” to be rampant, but there isn’t, because of some unwritten rules of courtesy that the drivers abide by thus allowing traffic to more slowly, but free of any major accidents or rage road incidents…..this is Ugandan kindness! (We were told today that there are a lot of accidents but we haven’t seen any…yet.)

We’ve learned so much from everyone we meet. They are eager to share their stories to us, it is to much for my brain to remember. When we can we pull out the phone & record but again I don’t want to chance losing my phone. Here are a few things we have learned thus far.

1. How to trim & water a banana tree & know when bananas are ready! Isaac gave us a demo when he was trimming the banana plant he had planted in front of our AirBnb.

banana tree
banana tree in our front yard of airbnb. almost time for the bananas to be ripe!

2. If you drink black tea, its because you can’t afford milk!

3. Eggs are taken out of the tray & put in plastic bag when you buy so easy going getting those babies home without cracking them!

Buying eggs at Oscar's store in Muyenga.
Buying eggs from Oscar’s store.

4. We have learned that some businesses do not have their prices marked & will charge a higher price to foreigners. We spend a lot of time talking to people that live in the area & usually know the price before we shop in those stores. If they try to charge us a higher price because we are “foreigners” we simply do not buy from those locations. So we have our favorite local stores that we enjoy using based on our customer service experience & knowing that the items are priced as they are put on the shelf.

5. I feel totally comfortable walking to local coffee shop in our neighborhood for a cappuccino or fresh juice! This is BIG for me to feel that comfortable to walk by myself in a new country – to us.

Fresh coffee or fresh juice?
Fresh coffee or fresh juice?

6. We have learned almost Everyone knows Someone if you need a particular product. One person calls another who may have to call another but in the end they will get us what we need.

7. We have learned that getting an visa extension online is not as easy as they may make it sound…seriously …but that is for another day!

8. A lot of the African peoples’ misconceptions about Americans mirror the Americans misconceptions of Africa!

9. Downtown Kampala is crowded with people, motorcycles, autos & motorbikes so it is not my favorite place to visit or spend any amount of time …I’ll stay in our little neighborhood. Ha.

A Word About Guided Tours

GuruWalk – DON’T DO IT!!

Top of my list not to recommend in Kampala – GuruWalk. Booked, confirmed & arrived the morning of our tour. Our driver insisted on calling Guru before she dropped us off. Thank Goodness she did. The tour guide said she was one hour away & we could wait for her…Said we had not confirmed! Our driver asked the tour guide where she lived & when told the village, our driver said that the trip to Kampala from that area could be more than two (2) with traffic. Anyway, our driver provided us with a small tour of downtown Kampala & ended by telling us to only travel to downtown Kampala if it is absolutely necessary, otherwise you will spend hours stuck in traffic jams.

SafeBoda

We did a day tour by SafeBoda & it was a blast though both of us had aching backs by end of the day. For those of you who don’t know – SafeBoda is the regulated motorscooters you will see around town. The great thing is they are recognized by their orange safety vest with their name & number on the back as well as their orange helmets. What we noticed on our tour was that Ezra & Agaba, our drivers, took care to try to avoid mud holes or ruts in the roads. This is an experience you need to try. Its a whole different view hanging onto the back of one of these machines navigating the streets, cars & thousands of other bodas! Awesome! At times, you could easily reach out & touch the person next to you. You do have to be careful of getting your phone snatched from your hand, so there really is not much chance to get a video of the ride.

Prepping for SafeBoda tour
Prepping for SafeBoda tour

We took a one day tour of Kampala with Ezra & Agaba to the following sights. We were to go to the Idi Amin Torture Chambers but we were pooped after the three sights below so we cut the day short. It was awesome & well worth the fee charged by SafeBoda!

Baha’i Temple

Easy to get to on SafeBoda & sign in only-no fee. Temple is beautiful but the grounds are awesome!

Baha'i Temple
Baha’i Temple in Kampala!

Uganda National Mosque or Gaddafi Mosque

This was another stop during our Safeboda tour. Commonly called the Gaddafi Mosque, the Uganda National Mosque sits in Old Kampala. Looking out from the top of the minaret you can see that all main roads lead to the mosque. From this vantage point also, you can easily see the 7 Hills that make up Kampala. Small fee but worth it just to be able to climb the minaret to see view of Old Kampala town! The Mosque itself can handle 15,000 on the main level with another 1,000+ in the gallery. Than outside there is room for up to 3,500. This is the largest Islam mosque in East Africa & worth the viewing!

Gaddafi minaret
Gaddafi minaret
Gaddafi Mosque
Gaddafi Mosque

ceiling of Gaddafi mosque
ceiling of Gaddafi mosque

Hand carved ceilings & beautiful hanging lights. The minaret is well worth the climb to see the full view of Kampala.

National Museum

Small fee for entry to the Museum & you can pay a small donation for guide. Our guide was Rose & she was great explaining all the different displays, etc to us.

historical African head dresses
historical African head dresses
African wooden instruments
African wooden instruments you can actually play on!

Out Time is Quickly Coming to an End in Uganda!

Wow, time has flown. We are in the middle of our three month adventure in Uganda & time really is flying by. We are continuing our campaign of friendliness in Uganda & anxiously await our next stop in Africa! I definitely see a return visit to Uganda before we leave Africa down the road.

Stay with us & see where life takes us next!

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