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How to survive the Good, Bad & Ugly of Kampala!

Having been in Kampala almost five months now, we have found that you definitely must learn how to survive the good, bad & ugly of Kampala, Uganda! Don’t get me wrong, we have thoroughly enjoyed our five months of living in Kampala, Uganda. To be honest we have had very few bad interactions and that leaves us with a fairly good ‘taste’ of Kampala, Uganda.

We feel like we have learned so much during our short stay in Kampala. Although it definitely was a culture shock – I think – to both of us. The differences between cultures is so interesting & it really has been enlightening to see that we could easily survive the good, bad & ugly of Kampala! Open your mind & see what this country has to offer.

It is said a picture paints a thousand words, lets get started.

The Good of Kampala

Lets start with the good of Kampala. Housing [mostly apartments] is available in a wide range of prices depending on your economic understanding. Of course, if you want to live in one of the tourist areas such as Lugogo, your rent is going to be substantially higher but we have found there is a WIDE range of prices for housing – you just gotta do your research. It seems every turn we make there is another apartment building going up! Three buildings are being built around us in the Muygena neighborhood!

Another good is the natural beauty all around you. Taking a drive outside of town is just what we recommend, check out the villages or just the vast scenery. Slow down & enjoy the views. One of our goals was to take a drive to a local village.

village outside Kampala
View of village driven thru on our way to Jinja falls.
Source of the Nile River in Jinja! Amazing natural beauty of Africa!

Source of the Nile River in nearby Jinja!

Whether you are hungry for local chicken from a street vendor, a more relaxed meal at a great restaurant or homemade authentic matooke, you can’t go wrong.

Great street food in Kampala
Street food in Kampala on Bukasa Road.

Cafe Java lunch in Kampala
Cafe Java lunch in Kampala
matoke w/g-nuts
Homemade matooke w/g-nut sauce.
The Big Guy at edge of jungle.
We stuck our toes into the edge of the jungle during a day trip. Beautiful!

The biggest plus for Kampala is the people! Oh my – to us – the Ugandans rate right up there with the Thai people in their smiles! There is so much to see just in a normal day in Kampala, I could post hundreds of photos but hopefully this will make you think about adding Kampala as a stop on your next trip to Uganda.

The Bad of Kampala

Surviving the bad of Kampala can be taxing. As many good things about Kampala, it also has it bad points. It takes a lot out of me to watch small children on the streets walk up to cars at traffic signals & beg for money. Some people say that these small children are being used by adults to beg for money & then the adults take the money from them.

Children begging for money in streets of Kampala
It was not unusual to see children of younger ages than these two to be in groups begging. Locals we spoke to were not happy to see these children on streets when they should have been in school!

The hit & miss of internet service requires a real survival skill. One hour internet is running just fine & then when you are in the middle of a project there is no internet signal. Electricity is the same. It is great & then you might not have any for minutes or hours!

The only thing I can say about traffic in Kampala is – it is horrendous – due to congestion & poor street conditions, there is no rhyme or reason. I would never dare to even try to negotiate the traffic!

street ruts
street ruts

Bodabodas are unregistered motorcycles that act as a ride for hire transportation around Kampala’s heavy traffic. Thousands of people walk up & negotiate a price to ride these Bodabodas every day. This form of motorcycle transportation is considered to be unsafe, but the fastest mode of transportation for the residents & visitors to Kampala. The Big Guy & I used SafeBoda (A registered & licensed form of motorcycle ride hire transportation) for a day with no issues. During our stay in Kampala, we only witnessed two Bodaboda/vehicle accidents – luckily no one was hurt & all parties went on their way. [This would NEVER be resolved so quickly in the States].

Bodas are fearless!
Bodabodas are fearless drivers, some zoom down pedestrian sidewalks to avoid traffic & get to their destination faster!

The streets of Kampala are in need of repairs due to the sheer number of massive potholes on almost every street. During hard rainstorms in NON Touristy sections of Kampala the massive potholes become filled with rainwater & make maneuvering around the streets of Kampala even worst. I really don’t know why anyone would want to drive in this city BUT people say if you can drive in this traffic, you can drive anywhere:)

holes in Kampala streets
Holes on Bukasa Road in Muygena, Kampala neighborhood keeps you on your toes!

With rain filling the potholes, at a glance, you cannot tell how deep the rut(s) are under the water. These drivers really are experienced in driving in these conditions without tearing up their vehicles.

Ruts covered by rain make for an even more dangerous drive.

This has to be the mother of all manholes in dire need of help in Kampala! For the most part, we were told the conditions of the streets depends on who that neighborhood voted for in the election! We were told that by so many people here in the city, I’ve no doubt it is true. You can easily drive a couple miles & go thru beautiful paved streets with palm trees lining the walks (this would be in a tourist area) & then turn a corner to see horrendously rutted ones such as this.

Raised manhole in Kampala street
Raised manhole in Kampala street

We had multiple people tell us that politicians control the shape of Kampala streets. Simply put, the money is allocated for infrastructure but the shape of your street could possibly depend on who you voted for in last election. Yeah, evidently that is a real thing here.

The Ugly of Kampala

Housing, again can be ugly. We were told that the slums are worsened with the numbers of immigrants/refugees from neighboring countries. Population is a major problem. There are over ten major slums in Kampala.

Garbage/trash lining ditch in Kampala slum
Garbage/trash lining ditch in Kampala slum
dead rr tracks in Kampala slum
dead rr tracks in Kampala slum

Streets can be extremely dirty & when it is dry – you can cut thru the dust as seen in this pic. Dirt, alone though is not the whole cause of the air pollution in Kampala – number of autos on streets, emissions & burning of waste used to control it are probably on the high end of the bad air quality numbers.

Dirty air is no joke in Kampala dirt streets.
Dirty air is no joke in Kampala dirt streets.

Our Final Thoughts on Kampala???

Overall we have enjoyed our time in Kampala. We met so many amazing people that will remain as extended family. We knew we were blessed to be able to make this trip to the continent of Africa & I feel like Uganda was a good first stop. Our visa & extension is quickly coming to an end & so we have decided we need to see more of what Africa has to offer!

Next stop is Kenya & we hope to see you there next month!

One Month in Uganda! What A Surprise!

Its only been one month in Uganda & it has been very interesting! What we have learned in such a short time has been amazing.

One month plus down in Uganda with two to go so we will be here a bit but I wanted to share some details of our trip so far & a few interesting facts we have learned along the way. We touched down in Entebbe, Uganda which is located on Lake Victoria, but most of our time has been in spent in Kampala. We may return to Entebbe in the near future though! Between the two cities, we’ll share with you some interesting tidbits we have learned from our new Ugandan friends & what we have been up to.

Before I get to far into this post, let me tell you that yes Uganda has roads, houses, apartment complexes, shopping malls, etc. They, as far as I can tell, have the same things – to a degree- that we had back in the States. We have definitely seen some differences but that is to be somewhat expected I think.

A few interesting things about Uganda that we have learned!

Population of Uganda as of 2021 was 45.85 million.

There are 56 tribes in Uganda with the largest group being Buganda who speak a Bantu language, Luganda.

It is said Uganda was named the “Pearl of Africa” by Winston Churchill because of its beauty, wildlife & diversity.

Although English is the official language, Luganda & Swahili are also widely spoken among the h numerous other tribal languages!

Uganda along with Kenya & Tanzania border the beautiful Lake Victoria, the third largest freshwater lake in the world.

Ugandans are quick to smile & very polite. Only a small few have shied or not responded to us.

Because of my fair skin complexion I have been told that some Ugandans refer to me privately as ‘the white’ or Mzungu [A Ugandan term use to describe a fair skinned white person or any light skin/European, etc]. Many people in Uganda believe that all Mzungu’s are wealthy. Does the words used to describe me bother me? No! It does concern me that people think I am wealthy, because I am not!!

We have learned that Traffic is hellacious with major potholes in many of the roads. It is normal for cars, trucks, taxi’s, motorcycles, bicycles & pedestrians to be experienced at avoiding these craters in the roads on a daily basis. Sidewalks are not kind! It is an experience that every newcomer to the city must endure while traveling around Kampala. Ha.

Arriving in Entebbe, Uganda

Our flights from the States to Uganda were very smooth. After researching the requirements to come into the country & getting all the hard copies required, we had to show our Visa Approval letter from the Ugandan Directorate of Citizenship and Immigration Control before we could obtain our boarding passes at the airport.

I won’t lie, for me it was a culture shock & it took me more than a few days to acclimate to the culture & demographics shock. In the United States I am used to seeing a majority of people that look like me & very few that look like my husband. Upon arrival in Entebbe, Uganda all the demographics were reversed. Everywhere I looked everyone had the same color as my husband & I didn’t see anyone that looked like me.

We spent a few days at a location in Entebbe before we decided to move to Kampala. Wow! Kampala is a very busy city, the streets bustling with cars & motorcycles everywhere! It seems like mass confusion with all the vehicles on the narrow streets, but somehow they seem to manage. Motorcycles seem to out number all other vehicles & with the horrendous traffic you would expect accidents & “road rage” to be rampant, but there isn’t, because of some unwritten rules of courtesy that the drivers abide by thus allowing traffic to more slowly, but free of any major accidents or rage road incidents…..this is Ugandan kindness! (We were told today that there are a lot of accidents but we haven’t seen any…yet.)

We’ve learned so much from everyone we meet. They are eager to share their stories to us, it is to much for my brain to remember. When we can we pull out the phone & record but again I don’t want to chance losing my phone. Here are a few things we have learned thus far.

1. How to trim & water a banana tree & know when bananas are ready! Isaac gave us a demo when he was trimming the banana plant he had planted in front of our AirBnb.

banana tree
banana tree in our front yard of airbnb. almost time for the bananas to be ripe!

2. If you drink black tea, its because you can’t afford milk!

3. Eggs are taken out of the tray & put in plastic bag when you buy so easy going getting those babies home without cracking them!

Buying eggs at Oscar's store in Muyenga.
Buying eggs from Oscar’s store.

4. We have learned that some businesses do not have their prices marked & will charge a higher price to foreigners. We spend a lot of time talking to people that live in the area & usually know the price before we shop in those stores. If they try to charge us a higher price because we are “foreigners” we simply do not buy from those locations. So we have our favorite local stores that we enjoy using based on our customer service experience & knowing that the items are priced as they are put on the shelf.

5. I feel totally comfortable walking to local coffee shop in our neighborhood for a cappuccino or fresh juice! This is BIG for me to feel that comfortable to walk by myself in a new country – to us.

Fresh coffee or fresh juice?
Fresh coffee or fresh juice?

6. We have learned almost Everyone knows Someone if you need a particular product. One person calls another who may have to call another but in the end they will get us what we need.

7. We have learned that getting an visa extension online is not as easy as they may make it sound…seriously …but that is for another day!

8. A lot of the African peoples’ misconceptions about Americans mirror the Americans misconceptions of Africa!

9. Downtown Kampala is crowded with people, motorcycles, autos & motorbikes so it is not my favorite place to visit or spend any amount of time …I’ll stay in our little neighborhood. Ha.

A Word About Guided Tours

GuruWalk – DON’T DO IT!!

Top of my list not to recommend in Kampala – GuruWalk. Booked, confirmed & arrived the morning of our tour. Our driver insisted on calling Guru before she dropped us off. Thank Goodness she did. The tour guide said she was one hour away & we could wait for her…Said we had not confirmed! Our driver asked the tour guide where she lived & when told the village, our driver said that the trip to Kampala from that area could be more than two (2) with traffic. Anyway, our driver provided us with a small tour of downtown Kampala & ended by telling us to only travel to downtown Kampala if it is absolutely necessary, otherwise you will spend hours stuck in traffic jams.

SafeBoda

We did a day tour by SafeBoda & it was a blast though both of us had aching backs by end of the day. For those of you who don’t know – SafeBoda is the regulated motorscooters you will see around town. The great thing is they are recognized by their orange safety vest with their name & number on the back as well as their orange helmets. What we noticed on our tour was that Ezra & Agaba, our drivers, took care to try to avoid mud holes or ruts in the roads. This is an experience you need to try. Its a whole different view hanging onto the back of one of these machines navigating the streets, cars & thousands of other bodas! Awesome! At times, you could easily reach out & touch the person next to you. You do have to be careful of getting your phone snatched from your hand, so there really is not much chance to get a video of the ride.

Prepping for SafeBoda tour
Prepping for SafeBoda tour

We took a one day tour of Kampala with Ezra & Agaba to the following sights. We were to go to the Idi Amin Torture Chambers but we were pooped after the three sights below so we cut the day short. It was awesome & well worth the fee charged by SafeBoda!

Baha’i Temple

Easy to get to on SafeBoda & sign in only-no fee. Temple is beautiful but the grounds are awesome!

Baha'i Temple
Baha’i Temple in Kampala!

Uganda National Mosque or Gaddafi Mosque

This was another stop during our Safeboda tour. Commonly called the Gaddafi Mosque, the Uganda National Mosque sits in Old Kampala. Looking out from the top of the minaret you can see that all main roads lead to the mosque. From this vantage point also, you can easily see the 7 Hills that make up Kampala. Small fee but worth it just to be able to climb the minaret to see view of Old Kampala town! The Mosque itself can handle 15,000 on the main level with another 1,000+ in the gallery. Than outside there is room for up to 3,500. This is the largest Islam mosque in East Africa & worth the viewing!

Gaddafi minaret
Gaddafi minaret
Gaddafi Mosque
Gaddafi Mosque

ceiling of Gaddafi mosque
ceiling of Gaddafi mosque

Hand carved ceilings & beautiful hanging lights. The minaret is well worth the climb to see the full view of Kampala.

National Museum

Small fee for entry to the Museum & you can pay a small donation for guide. Our guide was Rose & she was great explaining all the different displays, etc to us.

historical African head dresses
historical African head dresses
African wooden instruments
African wooden instruments you can actually play on!

Out Time is Quickly Coming to an End in Uganda!

Wow, time has flown. We are in the middle of our three month adventure in Uganda & time really is flying by. We are continuing our campaign of friendliness in Uganda & anxiously await our next stop in Africa! I definitely see a return visit to Uganda before we leave Africa down the road.

Stay with us & see where life takes us next!

Myths About Africa? Misconceptions We Were Made Aware Of!

As these two traveling seniors got closer to pinning down our next adventure, we were hearing many myths about Africa that we need to do some research on!

Although Africa has always been a dream of both The Big Guy & I, the myths about Africa, the misconceptions & misinformation about Africa really had us reluctant to even think about the possibility of travel there. Through our research, we learned that Africa was a continent full of adventures. So, the next question was where should we go in Africa – of the 54 countries on the continent of Africa – what mysteries & truths would we discover on this mysterious continent full of myths & misconceptions? Could we find our little piece of paradise? …..drum roll please… Read on to find out which country would be our first stop in Africa!

Why Visit Africa?

In building up to our finalization of plans for this trip, these two traveling seniors want to share with you some general myths & misconceptions about Africa that we had heard.

1] Africa is a country!

This was not an easy one! In school we talked about Africa as if it was a single country. Guess what? Africa is a continent that consists of 54 countries. I know it sounds silly when you say it but we both had a bad habit of just saying Africa instead of the country we actually want to talk about! We decided to take a trip to a country referred to as “The Pearl of Africa.” Have you figured out what country yet?

2] African people live in grass huts & wear loin cloths

How many times have you seen television shows that show African people living in grass huts or wearing loin cloths. When you think of Africa your mind immediately goes to the somewhat negative images seen on television. About 100 years ago many Africans lived in grass huts & walked around in loin cloth skirts, but modern day Africans walk around in jeans, slacks and suits. The style of their homes vary from multi-million dollar condos to tin huts, it’s all based on their economic status. Though tribes may have there own style of dress, we have yet to see anyone in a loin cloth.

3] Africa is a poor continent!

No, not necessarily. Yes, of course like every other country or continent in the world, Africa has different levels of challenging economy & Africa has more than its fair share! With a fifth of the worlds’ hunger on this continent alone, we have all seen the ads on television showing starving & malnourished African children & while these programs may be well meaning, you have to give credit due to the grass root programs of the African people. In areas of Africa life is very hard scraping out a living but there is also always hope for the future. Is there an end in sight to end hunger? I wish I could say yes but until ALL the African leaders make feeding their people a priority over political disagreements, it cannot be….

As a side note, did you know that the amount of money sent home from Africa by Africans is more than that the world aid dollars given?

On another note, the amount of natural resources taken from this continent – which contributes to the poverty – is a story for another time – people, gold, diamonds…

4] Africa has wild animals running everywhere!

The country is rich in natural beauty. Twelve million square miles of savannah, deserts & tropical rain forests & it can also toot its’ horn as to having the largest elephants & tallest giraffes on earth. Finish that up with having one million species of animals found on the continent. The only animals we have seen roaming some of the streets are cattle & goats!

African forest elephant
A myth about Africa – wild animals roaming the streets! LOL. African forest elephant (Loxodonta africana cyclotis), Gabon.

5] Africa is politically unstable!

There are countries in Africa that are politically unstable due to lack of leadership, corruption or internal conflicts. Having said that, 3/4 of the 54 countries of Africa have elected leaders, kings, prime ministers, presidents, etc.

A little history on this particular country:

“Uganda is named after the Buganda kingdom, which encompasses a large portion of the south of the country, including the capital Kampala and whose language Luganda is widely spoken throughout the country. From 1894, the area was ruled as a protectorate by the United Kingdom, which established administrative law across the territory. Uganda gained independence from the UK on 9 October 1962. The period since then has been marked by violent conflicts, including an eight-year-long military dictatorship led by Idi Amin.

idi amin
Idi Amin was a dictator for many years in Uganda promising peach but only bringing human atrocities!

6] Africa is not safe!

Every country, no matter the continent, is going to have crime of one sort or another. Africa has it’s share of robberies, mugging, street crimes, etc. I was surprised to hear that South Africa has the highest crime rate with a safety index of 22.5%! As always, you have to be aware of your surroundings & it doesn’t hurt to do a little research on the country & area you intend to visit. Knowing a few people in the community can be helpful in finding out the ins & outs of the neighborhood you intend to visit or stay. Again, you must always be aware of your surroundings no matter where you are!

7] Africans are Black!

Black people’s skin colors comes in many shades & colors. Skin color ranges from some of the darkest skin color in South Sudan to the lightest skin color being beige/white in South Africa. There is a connection between the sun, region, European bloodlines & mutations in creating the wide range of color. As a side note, the darkest skin tends to be in countries along the equator where the UV rays are super strong. For more, read this.

8] Africa is Behind in Technology

You may be surprised to know that six of the ten fastest growing economies in the world are African countries.

As of 2018 80% of Africans own a cell phone.

9] Africa’s weather is HOT!

Not necessarily so! The country that we are in right now (Uganda if you haven’t figured it out yet) has tropical weather with an average temperature of 27 degrees Celsius or 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The average daytime temperatures can range from 24°C to 33° C (75° F to 91°F). The hottest areas in this country are in the North during the months January & February where temperatures can reach 40°C/101°F. It does cool down in the evenings here but not normally below low 60s. I understand in the higher elevations, it is a little cooler.

Looking at this image of Africa terrain, it is easy to see where the North’s desert turns into Central & Southern tropic. For more about the overall climate check this out.

Image of Africa terrain
Africa terrain.

10] Africa-How will you communicate?

Language can be a barrier in many African countries, but to our surprise the three top languages here are Lugandan & Swahili with English as the official language. This was a huge, but nice, surprise! Again, have you figured out what country in Africa I am talking about? Simply put, in this country alone there are 56 tribal languages spoken, but almost everyone can speak English. Now I can tell you the tribal language of this area is Lugandan.

Are there other myths & misconceptions about Africa? You betcha but we pulled out the top ones that were most often asked of us prior to our take off to this beautiful land.

Follow us as we continue to venture out into Uganda & beyond in Africa!

Our Amazing Four Day Girls’ Trip to Hawaii!

It took some maneuvering but our four day girls’ trip to Hawaii came off with a blast! It was truly everything I hoped it would be!

The Big Guy & I have been traveling internationally for the last two plus years looking for our piece of paradise to settle down but it was time for Momma (me) to chill with the a girls’ trip to Hawaii. The Big Guy & I were scheduled to fly to the continent of Africa end of March & I just felt I needed a play day or two with my girls! It took some strategy to get the four of us from various states to arrive approximately the same time in Kona but we did it! Carrie, my daughter, flew in from Atlanta. My oldest grand-daughter, Ashley, flew from Indiana into Konai with her momma, Candi – all within 30 minutes of each other!

Girls Trip to Hawaii
Girls Trip to Hawaii – from the front – Carrie, Ashley, Candi & me

Although unplanned & definitely not free, the girls decided to rent a car for the first two days! Melvin at the Hertz car rental was instrumental in our Hawaii dream trip coming true! After talking with him regarding what we wanted to see – free – he gave us a list of things we MUST see on the island & the order to see in order to get us all around the perimeter of the island while we had a car!

Follow this list & you will drive & see some spectacular sights FREE. “We saw all of these things in the first day of car rental but of course if you wanted you could stretch them out. Here’s what we saw – FREE.

1] Greenwell Coffee Farm

This was a great beginning to our day trip around the island. The tour was informational & very interesting with Matt walking us through the process of planing, selecting beans at picking & drying to selling, teasing us with a free cup of coffee at end of tour.

Coffee plants at Greenwell Farm
Coffee plants at Greenwell Farm

2) South Point Park

This photo says it all. Amazing views took our breath away! Heading South from Kona we drove to the southern most point of Hawaii.

View from the top of South Point Park, Hawaii
View from the top of South Point Park, Hawaii

3) Punaluu Bakery

We were told specifically to stop here & try out the Malasadas & they did not disappoint! This is a Hawaiian favorite Portugese fried donut, usually rolled in sugar & stuffed. We tried the chocolate iced/pudding filled & apple filled & they were delicious! This was a good call by Melvin on this yummy treat for a break in our journey!

Mlasads creme filled at Punaluu Bakery
Malasads creme filled at Punaluu Bakery

4) Punaluu Black Sand Beach

This beach was amazing! Black sand made from exploding lava makes this beach one of a kind. With the black sand & lava rock, tender feet beware. We went here just to see turtles & we did. They would come close enough for us to check them out but you are not allowed to bother or touch them. It was worth the trip & entrance was free.

Turtle Sign
Turtle Sign
Black Sand Beach - Punaluu
Black Sand Beach – Punaluu
Turtles at Black Sand Beach
Turtles at Black Sand Beach

5) Volcano National Park

This was last on our list but when we pulled up there was a huge sign $30 per car. We immediately just turned around & left as we were not expecting a fee. Melvin had told us it was free. Later we wished we had just paid the fee to see the site but we were out of time by then. If you want some info about this site, check this out. We really screwed up on not paying to get in…lesson learned – sometimes we can be too “cheap”. Ha!

The Girls’ Trip to Hawaii Would Not Have Been Complete Without This!

A Luau

A Luau! This is something we all agreed had to be done! The girls researched & picked this one & boy was it a good choice. A full meal dinner came with free drinks & great storytelling by music, song, dance & performance against the Hawaiian sunset with performers from Hawaii & South Pacific islands! Well worth the money we each paid!

dancer
Hawaii dancer

Memory Tattoos!

Three of the four of us got matching tattoos in memory of our trip! Simple design but cute – palm, sun, water, sand.

In Closing…

By time the fly out day came, we were all pooped but happy with the memories (& souvenirs) we made. On the days we did not have car we walked to the Sunday market which lined the main street along the water front & spent some time at the beach by hotel. We definitely stayed on our feet!

I don’t know if or when we will be able to do another ‘girls trip’, I do know I have a happy heart that I was able to spend quality time with my girls. Making memories….that is what it is all about!

Here are some misc photos of our girls’ trip to Hawaii!

Chicken Balls Sign - Have no idea what this sign meant but it struck me as hilarious!
Chicken Balls Sign – Have no idea what this sign meant but it struck me as hilarious!
Crosses on highway
Crosses on highway – Along this stretch of Hawaii highway we counted 22 sets of crosses, goats galore & two mongoose! LOL.
View from hotel
View from hotel
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